Venetian Tapas and Vivaldi’s Church

Today we slept in a little and crossed the city to get Cicchetti for brunch. Cicchetti, also known as Venetian tapas, are a selection of small dishes, mostly bread topped with various cheeses, meats and spreads but also things like meatballs and eggs that you usually have with drinks over several hours. They’re also absolutely delicious. We ate ours at All’Arco, which is one of the best places to eat in Venice and absolutely deserves the reputation, and is on the other side of the Rialto Bridge from where we were staying. (the Rialto is definitely worth seeing, both for the view and the wonderful if expensive shops, and we got a a little side tracked by them on the way).

We had aperol spritzes with our cicchetti and probably ate slightly more of them than was good for us. I recommend the goats cheese with onion jam and the preserved chilli’s with some sort of cured ham, they were really really amazing.

When we could drag ourselves away from the food we came back towards the Saint Mark’s Square side of town and went to the church of Santa Maria Della Pieta.The church was attached to the Ospedale della Pietà, an orphanage for girls where they were taught music by Vivaldi and where the best stayed on as members of his choir and orchestra. The outside is a beautiful plain white neoclassical while the inside is full of frescoes but still light and airy. I don’t have pictures but if you follow this link you can see some of the interior.

We went back to the Parlament for dinner and drinks and their food is really good. Its bar food but delicious and I recommend the Pasta e Fagioli soup (which isn’t a surprise if you read my blog) which was done in the Venetian style and very good, and their pizza which, though not outstanding for Italy, was still very good.

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